A Day of Culture in the Hutongs: Nanluoguxiang – Mao Dun’s Former Residence – Qi Baishi’s Former Residence Memorial Guide

To the east of Beijing’s central axis lies one of the city’s largest and best-preserved areas of traditional courtyard homes, centered around Shichahai and Nanluoguxiang. This area is not only a must-visit for experiencing the charm of old Beijing’s hutongs (alleys) but also a treasure trove of cultural history. Today, we’ll move beyond the bustling main streets and delve into the hutongs around Nanluoguxiang for a cultural walking tour tracing the footsteps of literary and artistic masters.

Trip Highlights:

• A Journey Through Time: Experience the many faces of Beijing, from vibrant commercial lanes to serene former residences.
• In the Footsteps of Masters: Visit the former homes of literary giant Mao Dun and master painter Qi Baishi, feeling the warmth of history and the spirit of art.
• Authentic Experiences: Sample old Beijing snacks, discover trendy boutiques, and find surprises in the depths of the hutongs.

Morning (9:30 – 12:00): Nanluoguxiang — The Lively Overture

We recommend arriving at the south entrance of Nanluoguxiang around 9:30 AM. The crowds are usually thinner at this time, allowing for a more relaxed start.

Nanluoguxiang is a north-south oriented hutong whose main street is now a bustling commercial lane. Don’t just rush through; slow down and:

• Sample Local Snacks: Try the traditional double-layer milk custard at “Wenyu Cheese” or churro ice cream. Rose cakes from “Miss Hai” and coffee bread from “Niji Bakery” are also popular choices.
• Explore Boutiques: The alley is packed with creative stationery shops, original design clothing stores, and unique handicraft shops, perfect for picking up souvenirs.
• Notice the “Centipede Alley”: Nanluoguxiang is famous for its structure—like a centipede, it has 16 symmetrical hutongs branching off to the east and west. Each has its own history, such as Mao’er Hutong and Yu’er Hutong, which we will explore later.

Tip: The main street can get crowded. Consider doing a quick initial walk-through and saving shopping and detailed tasting for the end of the day. The goal is to absorb the atmosphere and save energy for the quieter afternoon.

Lunch (12:00 – 13:30): A Meal in the Hutongs

There are numerous dining options on and around Nanluoguxiang’s main street:

• Quick & Easy: The variety of snacks on the main street can easily make a satisfying lunch.
• Beijing Flavor: Venture into a side hutong to find authentic Beijing restaurants, perhaps for some Zhajiangmian (noodles with fried sauce) or traditional copper pot hot pot.
• Casual & Chic: The area also has many cozy cafes and Western-style restaurants ideal for a relaxed break.

Afternoon (13:30 – 16:30): A Quiet Afternoon Tracing Masters

After lunch, we leave the bustle of the main street for a deeper cultural exploration.

First Stop: Qi Baishi Former Residence Memorial (13:30 – 14:30)
From the main street, follow the signs to Yu’er Hutong. It’s about a 5-minute walk. This was the home where the great Chinese painter Qi Baishi spent his later years.

• What to See: This is a beautifully restored siheyuan (courtyard home) with a tranquil atmosphere. The courtyard displays introductions to Qi Baishi’s life, high-quality reproductions of his works, and recreations of his studio. While there are few original paintings, the ambiance of the courtyard powerfully evokes the spirit of the master artist. The pomegranate and jujube trees in the yard add a touch of daily life.
• Time Needed: Allow 40 minutes to 1 hour for a thorough visit.

Second Stop: Mao Dun’s Former Residence (14:30 – 15:30)
From Yu’er Hutong, return to Nanluoguxiang’s main street, walk north for about 10 minutes, and look for the sign for Houyuan’ensi Hutong. Mao Dun’s home is at No. 13 on this quiet lane.

• What to See: Compared to Qi Baishi’s residence, Mao Dun’s home is more modest and serene. This is where the literary giant lived and worked for the last seven years of his life. The residence maintains its original layout, with his study, bedroom, and living room displayed as they were. You can see Mao Dun’s manuscripts, books, and personal items, imagining him working on works like “The Road I Have Taken.” A mock orange tree in the courtyard adds to its refined feel.
• Time Needed: Allow about 40 minutes for the visit.

Afternoon Tea Break (15:30 – 16:30)
After the contemplative experience of the two former residences, it’s the perfect time to relax in a hutong café. You’ll find many characteristic cafes on Houyuan’ensi Hutong or back on Nanluoguxiang’s main street. Enjoy a coffee while reflecting on your visits and recharging for the evening.

Evening (16:30 onwards): Shichahai Sunset & Dinner

A short walk west (less than 10 minutes) from the hutongs around Mao Dun’s residence brings you to Shichahai, a famous lakeside recreation area in central Beijing.

• A Scenic Stroll: Walk along the lakeshore and enjoy the view of the water, willows, and traditional architecture bathed in the evening light. You can go ice-skating in winter or boating in summer.
• Yandai Xiejie: Consider strolling down Yandai Xiejie (Tobacco Pouch Slant Street), a narrow, curved street connecting Shichahai to Gulou, which has its own unique charm.
• Dinner Options: The Shichahai area is a food lover’s paradise. From authentic Beijing restaurants like “Kaorou Ji” or “Bao Du Feng” to various bars and international cuisines, you’ll find plenty of options for a satisfying dinner to conclude your cultural day.

Practical Information:

• Tickets:
  • Nanluoguxiang: Free.
  • Qi Baishi Former Residence Memorial: Approximately ¥5-10 RMB (please check on-site for current prices).
  • Mao Dun’s Former Residence: Free, but may require ID registration.
• Transportation:
  • Subway: Take Line 6 or Line 8 to “Nanluoguxiang” Station, Exit E leads directly to the south end.
  • Bus: Many bus lines stop at “Luoguxiang” or “Di’anmen Dong” stations.
• Best Time to Visit: Spring and Autumn, when the weather is mild and pleasant.
• Important Notes:
  • Memorial homes are typically closed on Mondays. Always confirm opening hours before your visit.
  • Please respect the cultural relics, maintain a quiet demeanor, and be a courteous visitor.
  • Hutongs have narrow pathways; be mindful of pedestrians and occasional vehicles.

This guide is designed to help you look beyond the surface-level excitement and delve into the rich cultural fabric of Beijing’s hutongs. We wish you a memorable journey in Beijing